Langthwaite Circular (via Booze), Yorkshire Dales - 21st Jan 2007

Start / Finish: Langthwaite Car Park (Grid Ref: 005 023). 59 miles from Tyne Bridge, Newcastle

Distance: 7 miles

Time: 2.5 hours

Terrain: Meadow, moorland, riverbank & road. Can be very muddy!

Route Rating: 7/10

Difficulty: 5/10. After periods of rain, some tricky streams & mud to negotiate

OS Map: Explorer OL30 (Yorkshire Dales - Northern & Central areas)


Intro: Until this walk, the Old Speckled Hen at the Ship in Seahouses had always been my favourite pint in the region. However, the Black Sheep offered by The Red Lion in Langthwaite was simply superb and definitely rivals it. If ever in the area, you must pop in to this cosy old pub for a very rewarding pint.
After the disappointment of having to cut this walk short the previous week, I had been in touch with the author of the guide and reconsulted the map and decided to come down and do it again in full. I travelled down alone but was rewarded with a lovely (if a little chilly) day and, as previously mentioned, a great pint at the end.
I had planned to make an early start but a later than planned cards evening with friends the previous evening put paid to that and having eventually begun the walk not long after midday, I ended up having to run much of the final mile or so in order to reach the Red Lion before afternoon closing at 3pm. Happy to say I've still got some sort of turn of foot and made it with time to spare.

Overview: Excellent scenery and a bit of everything. Pasture, riverbank and raw fresh air on open moorland along with tumbling streams, picturesque villages and even an old graveyard are all rounded off with a great little pub at the end.

Description: To follow

Langthwaite viewed from the approach to Booze

Rain laden pasture (at 019 020)


Grave of Mary Coate at Arkle Town graveyard, dating back to 1788.
Might we have been related?





A snow-capped Mossy Thorn viewed from Cringley Hill

Comments: Although there is nothing at all too severe, this walk is certainly much trickier after long spells of rain. It can get very muddy in parts and streams that can be a gentle feature of the walk for most of the year can prove tricky to cross (especially without getting your feet wet!) Take good boots and gaiters at least in these conditions...but take your camera too! For more detail see The Inn Way...to Black Sheep Pubs by Mark Reid (IWP), a great book with 25 routes in the Dales all finishing with the opportunity to grab a pint of Black Sheep!

Post Walk Pint: The Red Lion Inn, Langthwaite (01748 884218). This cosy, traditional pub has featured in many television shows, inlcuding All Creatures Great And Small. Serving snacks along with guide & history books, it above all serves up an outstanding pint of beer. The Black Sheep was absolutely gorgeous and at £2.25 an absolute snip. If you are planning to come, make sure you get driven here!
The pub is small and full of character...when I walked in there was only one other customer inside...a dapper old gent asleep in the corner without a drink! One watchout is that it closes most afternoons at 3 and doesn't open again until 7 so make sure you plan any walk with these times firmly in mind! If you do miss out, there are several good pubs in nearby Reeth.

The Red Lion Inn, Langthwaite

Barrowburn Circular (via Windy Gyle) - 14th Jan 2007

Start / Finish: Wedder Leap car park (NW of Alwinton) (Grid Ref: 866 103). 47 miles from Tyne Bridge, Newcastle

Distance: 10.5 miles

Time: 4 hours

Terrain: Mainly clear-pathed hills. Some moorland, tracks & woodland

Route Rating: 9/10

Difficulty: 7/10

OS Map: Explorer OL 16 (The Cheviot Hills)


Intro: An extra incentive to get up and out was the disappointing finish to yesterday's walk, a circular from Langthwaite in the Yorkshire Dales. Six of us (Andy, Emma, Nicola, Nevs, Cathy & I) set out on a pleasant walk through muddy pastures although Nicola and I suffered more falls than Redemption (two each...and this despite my spanking new boots!). However, in the later stages, we encountered a difficult piece of navigation as the terrain had changed compared to that indicated in the guide book and with the wind howling and the rain and light closing in, we took the safe decision and headed back to the car and up in to Reeth for a pint of Black Sheep at The Black Bull. After contacting the book's author, who was extremely helpful, and reconsulting the map, I was able to put my mind at rest and now realise the route that should have been taken. This will be re-walked soon and posted on the site as it's a smashing day out.
On to the present walk, though! With the promise of a superb Sunday dinner ahead and Newcastle live on the television (a 3-2 win at Spurs!), Nevs & I headed out early and were raring to go by 9am. The weather was kind although the strong winds still made balancing (and hearing!) a little tricky. We set a strong pace but were rewarded with a superb walk which included a brief lunch in the sanctuary of a stone semi-circle atop Windy Gyle, providing welcome if brief respite from the gales!

Overview: A challenging but rewarding walk with stunning panoramic views of the Cheviot hills. Well signed and easy to navigate throughout, looking around is simply breathtaking as you ascend (and descend!) the remote peaks. Mainly undertaken on clear paths and old drovers' roads and a good stretch of it follows the border fence btween England & Scotland.

Description: To follow

Looking NW from Swineside Law

Rowhope Valley from approach to Windy Gyle

On Windy Gyle summit

Between Hexpethgate & Barrowburn

Russell's Cairn

Comments: Although reasonably strenous throughout, there is nothing unusual to point out. Often very windy though so, coupled with the cold, this should be guarded against with appropriate clothing. Strong footwear recommended too and small areas can get boggy. For more details, see the excellent Walking the Cheviots by Edward Baker (Sigma Leisure) which also contains a further 46 circular routes in these hills!

Post Walk Pint: Rose & Thistle, Alwinton (01669 650226). About 5 miles from the start / finish, this ever popular (with the author at least!) pub offers a decent pint and food as well as accommodation (it may pay to get there early for food on a Sunday as although it wasn't particularly busy, we arrived at 1.20pm and they were out of roast meat). There is a small, low-ceilinged bar with a pool table and also a larger lounge area (where children are welcomed) with a beer garden to the rear. Once again, I was met with the welcoming sight of Black Sheep on draught and the pump even appeared to make sheep sounds when pulled! At a very reasonable £2.20, it was a lovely, refreshing pint. Nevs seemed to enjoy the Guinness too!

Brief History: Windy Gyle is the fourth highest of the Cheviot Hills with its summit at 619m and on it stands Russell's Cairn. This was named in memory of Lord Francis Russell, a ranger in the area who was murdered at nearby Hexpethgate in 1585. The cairn itself, however, dates back to the Bronze Age. The cairn actually stands on the Scottish side of the border.

Coalcleugh Circular (nr Nenthead) - 7th Jan 2007

Start / Finish: Lay-by at Coalcleugh (Grid Ref: 802 453). 44 miles from Tyne Bridge, Newcastle

Distance: 5.5 miles

Time: Approx 2.5 hours

Terrain: Hilly moorland, some heavy marsh

Route Rating: 7/10

Difficulty: 6/10 Ascents not too severe but difficult terrain & navigation

OS Map: Explorer OL31 (North Pennines)


Intro: Almost a harsh lesson learnt the hard way as on exiting the car at the start to be met by howling winds & light rain, I realised that I had forgotten my waterproof jacket! Fortunately, I had my warm hat and after deciding to plough on, the rain kindly stayed away for the remainder of the walk. On hearing the first startled Grouse cry 'Go back, go back', I thought it may be offering sound advice but continued on what proved an enjoyable if testing walk for the distance. The trusty Compeed in the first aid kit was very welcome though as a persistent blister had reared it's annoying head again after yesterday's toddle.

Overview: Remote, exposed & bleak in these conditions (strong winds & mist) but an ideal walk for 'getting away from it all'. Following moorland hills in the main, there are limited points of interest but the views of West Allen Dale are expansive and rewarding. Some rights of way difficult to navigate but more of this later. Map & compass essential.

Description: Head towards the West from the start, the Public Footpath sign 'Nenthead 2' pointing the way.


The start at Coalcleugh!

Follow the track to the left of and beyond the building (marked Sunnyside on the map) ahead. Continue to follow the track and pass through a wooden gate. Keep on until you reach a small ford (at 799 452) and cross this. Take care here as it was quite fast flowing when I crossed, although the rocks below the water did not appear to be slippy. Again follow the track to the right for a short distance until a waymarker points you to follow the bridleway up and to the left.
The track continues for about 750m until you reach a stone wall...the path is not particularly clear but is well waymarked and basically heads just about due West. On reaching the wall do not pass through the gate but instead turn right.
Walk slightly away from the wall in the direction of a waymarker 100m or so ahead. This points you in the direction of Dodd's End which is on the South East corner of The Dodd which is clearly visible ahead. Following the waymarkers, join and follow the track which skirts the East of The Dodd. The West Allen Dale is now visible in the distance (on a clear day!).


West Allen Dale viewed from east side of The Dodd

About 1km or so after the track begins to descend and head NNW you will reach a 4-directional Bridleway waymarker. Take the path heading off to the right here and follow the waymarked route down towards the corner of a stone-walled enclosure (at 794 469). Continue to descend the bridleway parallel to the wall in a NE direction, passing sheepfolds on the left until, after negotiating some rough and marshy terrain, you arrive at the footbridge across the River West Allen. Cross this, follow the path up towards Carrshield and pass through a gate on the left after 25m or so and up between buildings until you meet the main road running through Carrshield.
This is where navigation becomes tricky for a spell as signs & gates/stiles are absent. Straight ahead of you is an old barn. To the left of this is a driveway with a gate. This is actually the bridleway too as the extremely helpful owner of the property who I was lucky to bump in to at this point kindly informed me. Pass through the gate and head to the right behind the barn towards a sliding gate in a fence. Pass through this gate, enter a pasture and head diagonally up to your left in a SE direction to reach a stone stile to the left of the top corner of the field. This stile is very narrow and very difficult to spot at first. Cross this stile.
Head straight ahead. Soon, the right of way passes to the right of the deserted buildings at Loudside and on to meet a track. However, all access beyond the wall at Loudside appears to have been fenced off so I had to head towards another deserted building away up to the right (at 806 472) and here climb over a gate to reach the track. From here, head up and to the right in a SE direction towards Carrshield Moor. After a fairly tough kilometre or so, you should arrive at a lone waymarker (at 812 465) where the track is met by another. The summit of Killhope Law (673m) is visible directly ahead of you.

View to Killhope Law from Carrshield Moor

Here, take the path down to the right and follow the fairly frequent waymarks, passing ruins at Rushymea & Whetstonemea, until you reach a metalled road. Join the road and turn right. Follow the road as it leads you up in a SW direction and back to the junction and lay-by at Coalcleugh and the finish of the walk.

Comments: Would not recommend this for those without a bit of walking experience and certainly requires the presence of somebody with decent navigational skills ( so not sure how I eventually got back to where I started!). Strong footwear, warm clothes, waterproofs, map & compass all essential companions. If alone, ensure somebody knows the route you are taking. Lots of marsh on the descent to, and immediately after, Miners Rest (800 474). See Alan Hall's excellent Walking In Northumberland (Cicerone) for a detailed guide to this and many other walks in the area.

Post Walk Pint: The Miners Arms, Nenthead (01434 381427). 2 miles from the Start/Finish at Coalcleugh, The Miners Arms is a cosy 1700s pub serving food & good beer. Happy to say that my favourite beer, Black Sheep, was on draught and a decent pint it was too at a reasonable £2.10. The pub is No Smoking throughout and although I didn't eat, there looked to be a nice menu including a children's menu. The pub also offers accommodation and is on the Coast To Coast cycle route.

Brief History: Carrshield was home to two lead mines & an ore works and was mined for over three centuries. The company which ran the mines built schools and one still stands, dating back to 1851.

Carrshield vith River West Allen in foreground

Lambley Viaduct Circular (nr Haltwhistle) - 6th Jan 2007

Start / Finish: Featherstone Park South Tyne Trail car park (Grid Ref: 682 607). 41 miles from Tyne Bridge, Newcastle

Dist: 5.75 miles

Time: Approx 2.25 hours

Terrain: Mainly track + pasture. Some riverbank 'mud path'

Route Rating: 7/10

Difficulty: 3/10 (although one brief steep ascent towards the finish)

OS Map: Explorer OL43


Intro: Nevs & I set out for the first walk of 2007...Robbie cried off sick at the eleventh hour (hangover? lie in? or genuine?!). Having checked the BBC weather site just before setting off and it not suggesting a hint of rain, it was disappointing to have intermittent showers throughout the day. We began just after 9am and as it was only a pipe-opener for longer walks to come, we were finished in such time that we had an impatient wait for the pub to open at 12! Before the off, Nevs tried to hide his suspicion of all dogs by offering a friendly pat on the head to an energetic Spaniel, only to receive a huge muddy paw print on his beige strides for his troubles!! One quick drink at the finish when future walks were discussed and it was off in to Newcastle to meet friends from my Greek course for coffee & some much needed practice!

Overview: A pleasant and varied walk via a disused railway route and pasture. The majority follows the course of the river South Tyne which is a fast flowing and noisy companion for most of the route. Plenty of flora and items of interest including a spectacular viaduct, a picturesque castle and a former WW2 POW camp. Also of note a fence near Diamond Oak with around 20 deceased moles dangling by their necks!

Description: As indicated by a sign next to the car park, join the disused railbed in a SSW direction and follow it for 1.75 miles to Lambley Viaduct (675 584). Even after periods of rain, the going should not be too testing. After admiring the views of the winding River South Tyne below, descend via steps at the opposite end of the viaduct and then, following a sign to Coanwood, take some wooden steps in the wood until you reach a footbridge across the river.



Lambley Viaduct

Cross the river. Turn left on reaching the other side and head in a N direction following the course of the River South Tyne via path & pasture. Pass the former POW camp (674 604) and continue to reach Featherstone Castle on your right.



Featherstone Castle

Continue on and turn left on reaching a road for around 50 yards until a gate leads you to footbridge across the river signed 'Kellah 1'. On reaching the other side, do not join the ascending steps ahead of you. Instead you have to turn right and almost double-back to join the path towards Featherstone Bridge. This path can be be muddy, slippy and tricky in wet conditions and there are one or two tricky sections to navigate. Cross Featherstone Bridge (674 619) in a SE direction and to your left follow a Public Footpath sign for Featherstone Rowfoot, crossing the wall via a stile. Head directly to the other side of the pasture and take the sharp ascent in to the woods using the clearly visible steps. This route is known as Postman's Path and the short climb certainly gets the lungs blowing. Nevs complained of a slight outbreak of sweat at this point! At the top, exit the trees and head straight across the pasture to a stile at the other side. After this, cross two more fields and in a third, head for a stile at the corner of a small plantation (684 608). Cross this stile and head for another at the bottom of the dip on the right. After crossing this, follow the path alongside the fence to reach the road and turn left to rejoin the car park and the end of the route!

Comments: Although a fairly easy walk in the main, the section leading to Featherstone Bridge may prove tricky for some (e.g. small children) as might the ascent of the Postman's Path towards the end of the route. See Alan Hall's excellent Walking In Northumberland (Cicerone) for a detailed guide to this and many other walks in the area.

Post Walk Pint: The Wallace Arms, Rowfoot (01434 321872). Been here several times and have always enjoyed a decent pint of beer. Two real ales were on offer (Abbot Ale & Greene King IPA) as well as draught Guinness. A traditional pub which also offers a real fire, pool room and serves food. A pint of Guinness + a pint of IPA cost £4.65

Brief History: The Alston-Haltwhistle railway line ceased operation in 1976. Featherstone Castle's origins lie in the medieval period. It is not open to the public. POW camp 18 was a huge site which held around 7000 German officers and contained among other things a theatre. Lambley Viaduct became operational around November 1852.

POW Camp 18

Tomorrow, off to the wilds of west Allen Dale. Alone!

Welcome!

Northern Pub Walks will primarily offer ramblings (excuse the pun) on walks completed by friends and I in Northern England but should our boots take us further afield (e.g. Scotland, Southern England, Greece, Western Australia), artistic license will allow these to be included too!

Almost all walks will be of a rural nature and will (hopefully) include somewhere to get a welcome drink at the end (or even en route). In this respect, the priority will be to give details of Free Houses where a decent pint of real ale can be enjoyed but failing that, the best alternative will be offered.

Most walks will be trudged in England's most spectacular walking county, Northumberland, and its neighbours.

All ratings (difficulty etc) are based on people of average fitness (which the author can only aspire to after the Christmas break)! Ideally, walks will be suitable for almost everybody but I'll point out in the comments sections where walks may not be suitable for any particular reason.

I hope the site can inspire some great days out. Enjoy!