Distance: 5.5 miles
Time: Approx 2.5 hours
Terrain: Hilly moorland, some heavy marsh
Route Rating: 7/10
Difficulty: 6/10 Ascents not too severe but difficult terrain & navigation
OS Map: Explorer OL31 (North Pennines)
Intro: Almost a harsh lesson learnt the hard way as on exiting the car at the start to be met by howling winds & light rain, I realised that I had forgotten my waterproof jacket! Fortunately, I had my warm hat and after deciding to plough on, the rain kindly stayed away for the remainder of the walk. On hearing the first startled Grouse cry 'Go back, go back', I thought it may be offering sound advice but continued on what proved an enjoyable if testing walk for the distance. The trusty Compeed in the first aid kit was very welcome though as a persistent blister had reared it's annoying head again after yesterday's toddle.
Overview: Remote, exposed & bleak in these conditions (strong winds & mist) but an ideal walk for 'getting away from it all'. Following moorland hills in the main, there are limited points of interest but the views of West Allen Dale are expansive and rewarding. Some rights of way difficult to navigate but more of this later. Map & compass essential.
Description: Head towards the West from the start, the Public Footpath sign 'Nenthead 2' pointing the way.
The start at Coalcleugh!
Follow the track to the left of and beyond the building (marked Sunnyside on the map) ahead. Continue to follow the track and pass through a wooden gate. Keep on until you reach a small ford (at 799 452) and cross this. Take care here as it was quite fast flowing when I crossed, although the rocks below the water did not appear to be slippy. Again follow the track to the right for a short distance until a waymarker points you to follow the bridleway up and to the left.
The track continues for about 750m until you reach a stone wall...the path is not particularly clear but is well waymarked and basically heads just about due West. On reaching the wall do not pass through the gate but instead turn right.
Walk slightly away from the wall in the direction of a waymarker 100m or so ahead. This points you in the direction of Dodd's End which is on the South East corner of The Dodd which is clearly visible ahead. Following the waymarkers, join and follow the track which skirts the East of The Dodd. The West Allen Dale is now visible in the distance (on a clear day!).
West Allen Dale viewed from east side of The Dodd
About 1km or so after the track begins to descend and head NNW you will reach a 4-directional Bridleway waymarker. Take the path heading off to the right here and follow the waymarked route down towards the corner of a stone-walled enclosure (at 794 469). Continue to descend the bridleway parallel to the wall in a NE direction, passing sheepfolds on the left until, after negotiating some rough and marshy terrain, you arrive at the footbridge across the River West Allen. Cross this, follow the path up towards Carrshield and pass through a gate on the left after 25m or so and up between buildings until you meet the main road running through Carrshield.
This is where navigation becomes tricky for a spell as signs & gates/stiles are absent. Straight ahead of you is an old barn. To the left of this is a driveway with a gate. This is actually the bridleway too as the extremely helpful owner of the property who I was lucky to bump in to at this point kindly informed me. Pass through the gate and head to the right behind the barn towards a sliding gate in a fence. Pass through this gate, enter a pasture and head diagonally up to your left in a SE direction to reach a stone stile to the left of the top corner of the field. This stile is very narrow and very difficult to spot at first. Cross this stile.
Head straight ahead. Soon, the right of way passes to the right of the deserted buildings at Loudside and on to meet a track. However, all access beyond the wall at Loudside appears to have been fenced off so I had to head towards another deserted building away up to the right (at 806 472) and here climb over a gate to reach the track. From here, head up and to the right in a SE direction towards Carrshield Moor. After a fairly tough kilometre or so, you should arrive at a lone waymarker (at 812 465) where the track is met by another. The summit of Killhope Law (673m) is visible directly ahead of you.
Here, take the path down to the right and follow the fairly frequent waymarks, passing ruins at Rushymea & Whetstonemea, until you reach a metalled road. Join the road and turn right. Follow the road as it leads you up in a SW direction and back to the junction and lay-by at Coalcleugh and the finish of the walk.
Comments: Would not recommend this for those without a bit of walking experience and certainly requires the presence of somebody with decent navigational skills ( so not sure how I eventually got back to where I started!). Strong footwear, warm clothes, waterproofs, map & compass all essential companions. If alone, ensure somebody knows the route you are taking. Lots of marsh on the descent to, and immediately after, Miners Rest (800 474). See Alan Hall's excellent Walking In Northumberland (Cicerone) for a detailed guide to this and many other walks in the area.
Post Walk Pint: The Miners Arms, Nenthead (01434 381427). 2 miles from the Start/Finish at Coalcleugh, The Miners Arms is a cosy 1700s pub serving food & good beer. Happy to say that my favourite beer, Black Sheep, was on draught and a decent pint it was too at a reasonable £2.10. The pub is No Smoking throughout and although I didn't eat, there looked to be a nice menu including a children's menu. The pub also offers accommodation and is on the Coast To Coast cycle route.
Carrshield vith River West Allen in foreground
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